(One word on the arch, though—it reduces the oven mouth width from 16.5 inches to about 13 inches. I learned the hard way one night that many pizza peels will no longer fit, including Gozney’s own large-size models. Make sure you have a peel that’s 12 inches or smaller.)

Also, thanks to the generous ceiling height, the Dome is a more versatile oven than its competitors in that it can be used for cooking meals other than pizzas. Steaks, fish, or other skillet meals are safe not to splatter on the ceiling, and two included meat probes can be connected to show real-time temps on the Gozney’s display. (Among the Dome’s accessories is a mantel designed to extend the cooking surface for things like skillets and dutch ovens, as well as a wood-handled door to enclose the oven for baking.)

King of the Road

Photograph: Kat Merck

While the Gozney isn’t a permanent install, unless you spring for the wheeled stand ($500), you will want a sturdy, semi-permanent space where it can live, as well as moving help. The stainless steel body and 30 mm corderite stone weigh a total of 150 pounds in the packaging—instructions recommend four people to lift the box, though my husband and I were able to lift it ourselves onto a Gorilla wagon to carry it to its testing location on our deck.

There are straps on the bottom of the oven for maneuvering, but the Dome really should only be lifted once; you will not be carrying it in and out of the garage like an Ooni. There is a cover for either the oven by itself or on its stand, but like all of the accessories, it’s not included.

Speaking of Ooni: Like the Koda Max, the Dome heavily touts its size as being ideal for cooking “up to two pizzas at once.” However, if you’re buying a dedicated pizza oven, you probably want high heat, and if you want high heat, this requires frequent turning of a pie—usually every 30 seconds—to ensure it cooks evenly. (Gozney turning peel: $80.) Multiple pies in the oven will complicate access, to say nothing of the logistical issues. You will also likely find yourself needing to move the pie to the side farthest away from the flame at times, to avoid charring your cornicione.