Welcome to Locals Only. In this series, we’re tapping notable locals in the style space to share a tight list of their top recommendations of what to see, eat, and shop in their home city. They’ll share off-the-radar recs that you won’t find in your average guidebook, resulting in digestible mini guides revealing where the city’s most fashionable residents are actually hanging out.
When you first start researching a holiday to Australia, everyone is going to assume you’re headed to Sydney. There’s a long-standing feud about which city is better that dates back 150 years to post-Federation Australia, and I’m not sure it’s ever been fully settled. I wouldn’t say one is better than the other; they’re both amazing for different things. It’s like when people find out I’ve lived in both New York City and Los Angeles and they ask me which one is better—they’re different. If you want to spend your time enjoying the beach, then Sydney is the place to be, but let me influence you, as someone who spent her formative years growing up in Australia, why you should also add Melbourne to your itinerary.
I’m Jennifer Atilémile, international model and one of Who What Wear’s editors in residence, and even though I now live in Los Angeles, I still call Australia home (especially Melbourne). Melbourne is renowned for its cultural diversity and thriving art-and-music scene and as the fashion-and-food capital of Australia. I feel like an expert here, with my career as a model and my dad being a chef. He’s brought me along with him to markets and suppliers growing up, traveling to different parts of the city to get specific ingredients. It’s also home to some of the world’s most iconic sporting events. You’ve got quirky little European-style laneways that are home to little fashion boutiques and that lead to street-art murals, art galleries, and some of the best coffee in the world, but you’re also a day trip away from some of the most beautiful beaches, wineries, and national parks. I’m about to take you on a cultural journey to all my favorites in my favorite city, and I hope that when you one day visit Australia, you’ll be inspired to check out my hometown.
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Where are you originally from, and how long have you lived in this city for?
So I grew up in Melbourne! I wish I could say I still lived here, but I now call L.A. home. Even though Melbourne is the fashion and style capital of Australia, the kind of career I’m looking for is overseas. When people think of Australia, they always think of Sydney, and while I love Sydney and its gorgeous beaches, I want to try to convince you that Melbourne is better. Melbourne is put on the international map at least twice a year with the Australian Open and the Grand Prix. My parents and friends are all still there, and I’m always looking for reasons to go back and visit. It’s my favourite city in Australia. (I may be biased, but I think Melbourne is cooler and always has more going on.)
What are some of your favorite neighborhoods, and where do you find yourself spending the most time?
I love all the different neighborhoods in Melbourne. I grew up on the south side, and when I first moved out, I had a place in Prahran just behind Chapel Street (which was a disaster for my wallet because I’d always be spending at the little boutiques there). When I was at university, I had places in Brunswick and Coburg. I can safely say that both areas provide different vibes, but I’m a south-of-the-river girl at heart. I love Armadale. There’s still great shopping and cute wine bars. (Go to Alfred’s.) It’s quieter and leafier.
What does a typical day off look like for you?
I’d start my day by going to Pilates (Peaches in Windsor has the best hot mat class—it’s literally so hard) or go for a walk around The Tan. Then getting a coffee or juice. One of my favorite Aussie breakfasts is avocado on toast with a side of Halloumi. That plus a flat white is simply divine. If it’s the weekend, I’ll meet my dad at the South Melbourne Market to get produce for dinner on Sunday. (I always go to my parents for a late lunch if I’m in town.)
If you had to create the perfect afternoon for someone visiting the city with a limited amount of time, which area would you send them to, and what would their afternoon entail?
First, I’d check what exhibitions are on at the NGV or what shows are playing in the city. The Forum is a great theatre, and we often get great musicals and plays as well, and they’re all centrally located and very walkable (or in the Free Tram Zone of the city). It really depends on the season in Melbourne as to what you can do; there’s more life to the city in spring and summer, but it’s still fun in the others. I’d do a museum in the afternoon, stroll through the gardens, and end up at a wine bar to people watch. Or go to the gallery, then grab an early dinner and go see a show. Walking along the Yarra River is also a lovely afternoon activity. Staying close by the city means if you did want to pop to Carlton or Fitzroy, it’s super easy, or if you wanted to pop to Prahran or South Yarra, it’s easy enough as well.
Where would you tell a friend to stay?
Stay in the city. OR either side of. Melbourne has a Free Tram Zone in the CBD, so that’s super handy getting around, but I’d recommend staying either in Toorak/South Yarra or Fitzroy/Carlton. That way you can get to either side of the city. I’d recommend the Royce, Hyde, and StandardX.
What’s worth squeezing into your suitcase on the way home?
Melbourne has a good coffee culture. If you’re a fan, I recommend leaving room in your suitcase for beans.
I go here all the time with my dad. He’s a chef, and there’s great produce. There’s great food options—a variety of different local cuisines and grocery stores that are reflective of Australia’s multiculturalism. Shout-out to the oyster sandwich at the Claypots roadside stall on Cecil Street. It’s so good.
I love art and love just perusing when I’m in different neighbourhoods. The NGV hosts all the big international exhibits. When I was there last, I saw a Vivienne Westwood and Rei Kawakubo exhibition. The Ian Potter Centre (also part of the NGV) has an excellent curation of our First Nations artwork. For up-and-coming artists, I love At the Above Gallery in Fitzroy. One of the last times I went there, my friend Marisa Mu was showing her work before she moved to NYC!
It’s owned by a French Australian, but it’s a 12-seat omakase sushi bar. It’s intimate but friendly and a nice neighbourhood spot.
Fun fact, if you’ve seen the Netflix show Fisk, the exterior is across the road. My dad is from Réunion, and the owners are Mauritian—different country but similar cuisines. It’s a great feast.
A very curated selection of clothing brands from around the world, with small selections of homewares in an industrial setting. They’ve got good sneaker selections and brands like Comme des Garçons and Eckhaus Latta.
I wouldn’t necessarily say it’s under the radar, but they’ve moved locations to another spot, and it was pretty quiet for a Sunday lunch. The food is out-of-this-world phenomenal. Melbourne does pub culture like no other city in Australia, and this is no exception. It’s stupid good.
It’s on everyone’s lists of best restaurants in Melbourne, and for good reason. It’s one of my favourirtes, and I go there every time I’m in Melbourne. They make a very refreshing martini, and the service is incredible. When you go, you have to order the lobster with saffron rice. Because it’s everyone’s favourite, it’s very hard to get a reservation, so I’d recommend booking a table when you book your plane ticket to go to Melbourne.
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