PARIS — Redefining sensuality is becoming a big theme of the fall 2026 fashion season.

Emerging from the quiet luxury hibernation, many brands have explored the concept, presenting collections on runways that pushed forward their own take on what it means to be sexy and hot today — from Demna’s vision for Gucci in Milan to the sultry shows of Saint Laurent and Tom Ford in Paris.

Presentations here also entered the conversation. For one, the concept filtered in Roger Vivier’s seasonal showcase, staged at the brand’s Left Bank headquarters that opened last fall. “Sensuality for me is freedom,” offered creative director Gherardo Felloni. 

“Sensuality changes from woman to woman, and even within the same woman there can be different takes on this,” he continued. “But what I believe unites the sensuality I love is [the activeness] and confidence. It’s the woman who decides who she wants to be, even when choosing a shoe, which is an item that gives the opportunity to create a character. A high heel, a low heel, a killer stiletto or a chunk one: shoes are often misinterpreted,” said Felloni, underscoring that for him pushing the equation between sexy and stilettos as the only possible matching is démodé.

“The idea to explore sensuality in its different shapes was important for me, not to be banal. My goal is to be contemporary and make this brand [contemporary], I can’t push the notion of sensuality of 20 years ago. It doesn’t make sense in this context,” said Felloni. “A woman chooses who she wants to be and how to be sexy.…I can only observe women and answer to their needs.”

He did so in three ways for fall 2026. The strongest was by reinterpreting the brand’s iconic Choc heel. The curved, radical line of the look, conceived by the brand’s founder in 1959, reportedly shocked clients at first sight. 

“The Choc heel is a monument of our heritage. With the Virgule, these are the two most relevant heels Roger Vivier invented,” said Felloni.

Creating the illusion of imbalance, the heel’s concave and sculptural shape captures a sharp femininity Felloni looked to reignite in a variety of styles, ranging from graphic ankle boots in napa leather and satin pumps to pointy slingbacks and high-heeled mules.

In contrast to the original styles covered in satin, Felloni’s reinterpretation came with a thinner, higher and sleeker shape finished off by a lacquering technique borrowed from the automotive industry, which conferred more edge to the designs. 

Amplifying the graphism and contrasts he wanted to channel, Felloni adorned some designs with rigid metal bows encrusted with rhinestones and played with pastel colors.

“I love to play with extremes: colors are sweet and there’s a little bow, but it’s very graphic, which adds to this heel that is sharp and strong. It’s the mix that makes things more contemporary. And Vivier was never retro. Even if very refined and feminine, he’d always been avant-garde,” said Felloni.

A lower, chunkier version of the Choc heel also defined the part of the showcase dedicated to buckled cuissardes boots, with interpretations ranging from black croco styles to velvet ones richly embroidered with sequins and beads.

For Felloni, the over-the-knee boots epitomized independence and power, elongating the figure while being comfortable and casting a confident aura. 

“Cuissardes are the most protective part of the collection. They are sexy but at the same time day boots, so you can protect yourself,” said Felloni. “They trace back to Brigitte Bardot and her image on a Harley Davidson, which expressed a new type of sensuality, a rebel one,” he added, highlighting once again the founder’s pioneering spirit as he was the one to reintroduce such a silhouette in fashion.

A more delicate take was offered in the rose-themed segment. The archival floral reference that was revamped by Felloni here last year found wider expression in pointy ballet flats and a new handbag style that spotlighted the craftsmanship of the brand. 

“This is sensuality but linked to softness,” said Felloni, explaining the meticulous process behind each bag, whose 3D rose-shaped construction layers around 65 leather petals — each cut, shaped and applied by hand by artisans.

“It’s not even the leather that is now used in bag making, which is more sturdy. This napa leather is the one gloves are made from, very lightweight and supple,” said the designer. “We launched this rose theme two seasons ago and did some evening clutches. It worked so well, so taking the concept for daily occasions was a step further.”

Elsewhere, Felloni continued to explore more of the brand’s enduring staples, such as the Belle Vivier, as seen in a woven leather and suede slingback shoe or geometric clutch. Embroidered waistcoats, millinery and jewelry rounded out the collection, giving additional space for Felloni to express his creativity.

The designer has been pulling style references from Vivier’s archives — now housed in the Parisian headquarters’ basement space that was formerly a chapel — ever since he joined the brand in 2018. Asked which of the many codes is his favorite, he said it’s impossible to choose one.

“Vivier has been a game changer. He worked and changed fashion in the most beautiful eras of this industry,” said Felloni. “He changed the shape, he was the first to work on geometries. He changed the attitude. Before him, footwear was decoration. With him, it became a silhouette. He was an architect and worked on structure. And kind of on technology, because to do something like the Choc heel you needed that, too. Before him, that couldn’t be made.”