The Laura Biagiotti brand is deeply associated both with Milan’s Piccolo Teatro Studio Melato, where it has been showing for decades, and its headquarters, the Marco Simone Golf & Country Club in Guidonia, outside Rome. For the fall show, the two were joined together through a set that recreated the Marco Simone castle with its grand portal, immersed in a forest in the fall.

“It’s very evocative of our history and of our family, loved, carefully and patiently restored by my mother Laura, and it’s a national monument that has welcomed great minds, including Galileo Galilei,” said Lavinia Biagiotti, standing under the portal before the show. “The tower of the castle has more than 1,000 years, it has solid roots in the past, but thanks to fashion it lives in the future. So this portal is a passage from an extraordinary history to the future that fashion brings us every day. I like to think of it as a fairy tale.”

The castle was also reproduced on a sweater and the foliage palette ran through the feminine collection, ranging from chestnut and amber to deep green, red berries and rust.

Hinting at the promise of an early spring – which has clearly happened in Milan – a pretty floral print ran through a one-shoulder dress grazing the knees.

Cashmere continues to be core to the brand and Biagiotti presented it this season with an openwork motif on a dress, or spun as a fur coat in the signature white and cream colors. The house’s craft was telegraphed by the braided patterns, and in the ultra-light yarns for sculpted, fitted pieces, as well as the ankle-length maxi cardigans with cable knits.

Biagiotti this season veered toward a more sensual approach with wraparound skirts with slits, a body-hugging draped fiery red dress, a fluid silk Grecian-style gown and nude-toned tulle embroidered tops.

Influenced by the longevity of the castle as well as the brand’s three-generation history, the designer said she was aiming for timeless and durable garments. The collection reflected that desire and was aligned with the brand’s signifiers and codes. It was a solid proposal and, on a day when global news cast a dark shadow, Biagotti’s fairy tale offered a welcome respite.