Following the exit of Vivetta’s namesake founder Vivetta Ponti, the brand is writing a new chapter under its ultimate owners, the Anselmi family, which purchased a majority stake in 2022.

Vivetta showed menswear on the runway for the first time, and also dialed down some of the fantasy, wide-eyed innocence and exaggerated proportions for which the brand has been known.

The design team focused instead on creating a sophisticated collection full of tailoring, day and evening wear that was full of handwork and whimsical detail inspired by Truman Capote’s “Swans” and grand society balls.

Delicate, flattened plissé details surfaced on everything from minidresses to men’s suits, while pins and brooches in the shape of silver spoons, forks and napkins shone from the front of jacket lapels. A cream minidress was covered in delicate rosettes, which looked as if they’d been hastily formed from cocktail napkins.

The brand’s signature surreal touches were out in force, but were more subtle and less tricksy.

Vivetta’s signature face profiles, inspired by the artist Salvador Dalí, became the back flaps of a softly structured navy blue top. Later in the show, they were cut out and stacked together to create a 3D embellishment on a short felt cocoon dress.

For evening, the arty profiles gave way to kissing swan silhouettes, done in dark blue velvet on the front of a gray gown with an Empire waist, or on sheer black tops. Even the dark court shoes had a delicate swan neck silhouette at the front.

Ruffles made a brief appearance, on the edges of a sheer gown with a red argyle pattern and the collars of coats and jackets, while bits of faux fur added texture and warmth to the fronts of long princess coats, and the hemlines and necklines of long silky gowns.

The design team that took over from Ponti last year is quickly finding its way, serving up lovely, commercial clothing with a small side order of the visual tricks embedded in the brand’s DNA.