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Welcome to Out of Office… Who What Wear UK’s chic travel guide that provides you with the most stylish take on any given destination by tapping creatives who know where to stay, what to eat and, more importantly, which items to pack. This month, stylist and fashion writer Sophie Robyn Watson shares her tips for a memorable trip to Dublin.
I’ve always been partial to a city break, and love nothing more than a long weekend exploring someplace new with just a carry-on in tow. Having already dipped my toe into some of the UK’s coolest and most discerning hotspots over the years, including Bath, Glasgow, Oxford, Edinburgh, Manchester and Brighton, I have been keen to step a little further afield and give Ireland a go.
First on my hit list, naturally, was Dublin. Having heard so many great things about it, from its rich Celtic heritage, gastronomic scene, iconic pubs, scenic parks, illustrious literary history, and all-round good craic, I decided to take a 3-day trip to cram in as much as I could.
In the run-up to my short and sweet excursion, I tapped a few Dublin insiders for their tips, tricks and unmissable spots that most tourists tend to overlook. Corina Gaffey, fashion stylist and writer, gave me her tasteful picks on the best shopping destinations, as well as suggestions on what to pack, to stylishly kit me out for my time in the city. Anthony Remedy, hospitality consultant and entertainment specialist, opened up his little black book of restaurants, bars and nightlife spots, which you will find below. A special mention and endless gratitude to The Fitzwilliam Hotel Dublin for my exceptional hosted stay.
Scroll on to discover my Dublin guide, plus what to do, where to eat, where to shop and what to pack. You’re going to want to bookmark this. Enjoy!
1. Where To Stay
First and foremost, my trip wouldn’t have been half as good if it weren’t for my stay at The Fitzwilliam Hotel Dublin. Boasting 5-star credentials and having recently undergone a stunning refurbishment, the hotel sits in prime position opposite St Stephen’s Green, which is perfect for morning runs, light strolls with a coffee in hand and a breath of fresh air, bang in the middle of the bustling city. Suites come equipped with four-poster beds, a terrace overlooking the green and Diptique products in the plush bathrooms. Don’t scrimp on the breakfast; it’s classic, delicious and will set you up for a busy day of pounding the cobbled pavements.
“Dublin has many quality hotels to suit all types of people, whether it’s for business, for a city break or going to one of the many concerts the city hosts,” mentions Remedy. “Other 5-star hotels include The Merrion, The Dylan, The Marker, The Westbury and The Shelbourne. Cooler hotels comprise the newly opened The Hoxton, The Hendrick, The Dean and Zanzibar Locke. Many of these hotels have excellent dining options too, for instance, Glovers Alley in The Fitzwilliam Hotel or Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud at The Merrion, both of which possess Michelin stars. For something a little more casual, try Balfes brasserie at The Westbury Hotel.”
2. What To Do
There is absolutely something to do for every kind of Dublin visitor, whether you are in the market for arts, culture, galleries, sightseeing, or even over for a concert or gig.
First things first—pub culture is synonymous with the Irish capital, and you can’t walk 10 feet without spotting (and possibly stumbling into) a Victorian-era boozer, public house or tavern with its own distinct look and feel. The one thing that ties them all together is, of course, Guinness, the world-renowned dry stout, which seemingly fuels the city. Classic pubs wise, take note of the following, which will all have the iconic beverage on draft: The Long Hall, The Hairy Lemon, Peter’s Pub, The Stag’s Head, The Dame Tavern, Davy Byrnes, The Duke, Kehoes, The Temple Bar Pub and The Quays Bar. This is by no means an exhaustive list, as there are around 700 pubs in Dublin. Yes, you read that correctly! If you want the full, immersive experience, an afternoon spent at the Guinness Storehouse, located at the historic St. James’s Gate Brewery, will give you a real flavour of why the black stuff is at the heart of the city—book tickets ahead to avoid any queuing woes.
If cocktails are more your thing, might I suggest the following bars, which are spot on for chic pre- or post-dinner drinks. The award-winning Bar 1661 is like a modern-day apothecary, and their drinks masterfully use classic Irish spirits such as poitín, whiskey, gin and rum. The Sackville Lounge, the sister bar to 1661, is also not to be missed, and specialises in true classics, so head there if you love an old-fashioned, a spicy margarita, a paloma, a negroni or an Irish coffee. If you want old-school, 1930s hotel bar charm, head to The Sidecar, which is in the heart of The Westbury hotel, with a menu stacked full of potions and tonics that are all inspired by the city, the history, and its people.
On the nightlife front, Remedy has the answers. “Pre-book The Gate and The Abbey for theatre, alongside Project. Venue-wise, for bands and DJs, check out Whelan’s, The Sugar Club, Button Factory, The Grand Social, The Academy, Vicar Street and of course, The Olympia Theatre.” If you’re a cinephile, Dublin has a thriving film scene and often hosts film festivals and events. “For cinema fans, make for the Irish Film Institute (you can see an actual Oscar at the entrance to the cafe) and The Lighthouse. Just outside the city centre is The Stella, which is a gorgeous cinema and often name checked as one of the most beautiful cinemas in the world.”
Art-wise, The National Gallery of Ireland is completely unmissable (squeeze in a visit to the Picasso exhibition before it closes!). I also love popping into Marsh’s Library, a literary institution which famously opened its doors to the likes of Abraham Stoker, James Joyce and Jonathan Swift. It’s a spooky treasure trove!
3. Where to Eat
Dublin is home to a thriving foodie scene, and I couldn’t wait to try some of the local grub and buzziest new openings. With only a few evenings and lunch breaks at my disposal, I settled on Fish Shop for my first Friday night. Located in Smithfield, in the heart of Dublin City, it’s a small, unassuming and cosy dining spot which specialises in locally caught fish, the freshest Irish seafood and thoughtful wine pairings. This is a place worth booking in advance, as it only has a handful of tables and seats at the bar, but it is totally mouth-watering.
Next up, for my Saturday evening, I nabbed a table at Floritz, a decadent, Asian-inspired restaurant, set in The Townhouse Hotel (another stellar 5-star stay on St. Stephen’s Green). A vibrant menu of yakitori dishes, bao buns, crudo, sushi, soups and small bites is complemented with a selection of full-flavoured cocktails, saké and spirits, making for the perfect pre-theatre dining experience.
I crowdsourced several places for Dublin’s top Sunday lunch, and landed on The Legal Eagle, a stone’s throw from the historic Four Courts. An old-fashioned boozer chock-full of moody character, the pub boasts a great, classic roast selection, which was piled high with all the trimmings, plus brilliant service and a drool-worthy wine list.
Remedy shares his rolodex of other top dining destinations, plus a word of advice. “A pro tip: if trying a Michelin-rated restaurant, try it for lunch. It will be easier on the wallet and way less hassle getting a table.” His best eats below…
- Etto—Don’t forget to try the prunes!
- 777—Excellent Mexican food, great cocktails.
- Uno Mas—One of the best restaurants in the city, if not the country! From the same owners of Etto.
- Osterio Lucio, Juniors and Paulies Pizza—All located by the Grand Canal. Three great options when staying at the Silicon Docks area.
- Chapter One—Arguably the best restaurant in the country, 2-star now and pushing for this third. The gold standard of Irish hospitality and a gem.
- Pichet—Modern French. Top class.
- Nomo Ramen—Cheap doesn’t always have to be nasty. It’s good value for excellent ramen.
- Yamamori—Another Dublin institution, this Japanese restaurant is celebrating 30 years in business. It’s very reliable and Dubliners eat there day in, day out.
- Blas Cafe—Excellent value, casual food in the old chocolate factory! Lunch only.
- Glovers Alley—The most gorgeous interior with Michelin star food.
- Coppinger—Another Dublin classic, closed a few years ago but it reopened last year under the same owners.
- Pickle—Incredible Indian cuisine.
4. Where to Shop
Dublin is an extremely walkable city, and with many shopping haunts within close proximity of one another, getting in your retail therapy fix is easy, convenient and relatively low-lift. Gaffey gave me superb insight into the city’s top stores, with affordable buys, luxury investments, second-hand finds and top-tier beauty in mind.
“Drift between Drury Street, South William, Clarendon and Grafton, and you’ll hit a seamless mix of high-street, indie boutiques and vintage all within minutes of each other,” she begins.
“The Westbury Mall is home to some of the city’s best independent boutiques. Start with Ecru Studios, which stocks accessories and homewares from unique labels you can’t find anywhere else. Head to Stable for unique Irish pieces, keepsakes, then pop into Susan Hunter, who has the best lingerie and stunning slip dresses. Beauty lovers should make time for Parfumarija, Dublin’s niche fragrance hotspot, while Paula Rowan is unmissable for exquisitely crafted gloves worn by everyone from Lady Gaga to Elle Fanning.”
“Just off Grafton Street is New Chapter, a new addition to Dublin—a stand-out store that stocks a mix of Irish and international contemporary brands such as Flattered and Veronica Beard. Over on Castle Market is Costume, the chicest boutique with a stellar, polished selection of brands, including Isabel Marant, LouLou de Saison and Saloni. And, for true luxury shopping, you cannot miss Brown Thomas. The high-end department store is full of designer ready-to-wear, beauty, accessories and a constantly rotating roster of pop-ups.”
“Vintage-wise, there’s A Store Is Born on Clarendon Street, which is open only on Saturdays, and all the cooler for it. Loot on Drury Street, known for its impeccably curated rails (Lana Del Rey is a fan). Jenny Vander is a vintage institution, perfect for statement pieces with history. And you can’t miss Om Diva, the bubblegum-pink boutique with three floors of vintage, Irish design and quirky treasures sourced by owner Ruth on her travels.”
Other favourites of mine included Industry & Co, for colourful soft home furnishings, candles and barware. The Irish Design Shop is full of locally crafted pieces, such as pottery, socks, books and handmade gems, and Scout is brimming with Irish-made clothing, accessories, homewares and small gifts, spot on for carry-on only! Nine Crows had an amazing selection of men’s and women’s retro fashion, and, lastly, I adored Lou’s Lot, a tiny store nestled in the heart of George’s Street Arcade, which is packed to the rafters with vintage Burberry trench coats and Gucci handbags. Divine!
5. What To Pack
In a city like Dublin, you will inevitably find yourself on foot all day, so I would recommend packing trainers which give you substantial support and comfort. I wore Autry sneakers, which are slim-line, easy to pack, and pair well with everything from jeans, tailored trousers and midi-skirts, too. I’m a jeans girl through and through, so I lived in a Hush wide-leg pair over the course of the weekend, plus my fail-safe khaki denim trousers from Dala.
“Dublin is relatively laid back and casual,” Gaffey advises. “You can do double-duty on most pieces. Pack a slip or a minimal midi dress that you can style up or down, ideal for going straight from exploring to your dinner reservation.”
I packed a handful of simple tees and lightweight, cashmere knits to interchange, plus a handful of fun jewellery to add a little sparkle here and there. I loyally stuck to my trusty vintage leather bomber jacket to finish my looks each day. Gaffey has wise words about outerwear. “Depending on the time of year, you’ll always still need a coat, whether a light jacket, a trench coat, a funnel-neck leather jacket, or a faux fur coat for winter. Bonus points if it’s rainproof (vinyl or patent is a good shout) and borrow a brolly from your hotel—chances are, you’ll need it.”
I managed to get everything into a carry-on Antler suitcase just fine (as well as the shopping I inevitably undertook when there!), and also brought with me a Dragon Diffusion shoulder bag on the flight, which doubled as my day bag.
Scroll on to shop my look and the best pieces to take on your next trip to Dublin.
Packing Essentials
Reiss
Oversize Grained-Leather Bomber Jacket in Burgundy
The best leather jacket on the market right now, hands down. The chocolate hue, grained leather and funnel neck detail tick every single box for me.
Hush
Soph Crew Neck Merino Cardigan
Hush knitwear is not to be missed. I may be biased with this new-in Soph knit. So cute!
COS
Clean Cut Regular T-Shirt
I have this tees on constant rotation.
KHAITE
Benny Studded Suede Belt
This belt finishes all of my jeans and trousers looks expertly.
DALA
Calla Mid Rise Ankle Jeans – Dark Olive
My favourite denim brand. No notes!
I adore the pony-hair finish to these sleek sneakers.
DRAGON DIFFUSION
Nantucket Large Woven Leather Tote
The fashion editor favourite. This one is a great travel size, too.
Dmy Studios
Bibi Sunglasses
I swear by DMY frames, as does Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner.
Antler
Cabin Suitcase in Taupe
I won’t go anywhere without my Antler suitcase. This one is the perfect city break size.
UGG
Women’s Zora Leather Ballet Flat
You won’t catch me at home, on a flight or lounging around my hotel room without my Ugg Zora ballet flats. They are so comfortable!
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