While quiet on the rack, Aldo Maria Camillo’s clothing comes to life once on your back – or his.

During a showroom visit on Saturday morning, the Italian designer shrugged on a roomy, hooded parka in a hefty, compact black wool, a cushy bomber jacket in a recycled technical fabric, and then another bomber in washed satin, pushing up the sleeves on the latter two garments.

By gosh he looked chic in an offhand, I’ve-owned-these-since-forever way, all three garments jibing with his black beanie, band-collared white shirt, and his carrot-shaped, three-pleat pinstriped trousers.

Camillo’s work hinges on tailoring, and he tweaks it according to the unique characteristics of the fabrics he chooses, which for fall include Loro Piana cashmere, technical cottons, and Marzotto wools produced for military uniforms.

He remains true to a natural, lived-in shoulder line, organic cotton linings and masculine, low-key colors like sage, chocolate brown, black, camel and air-force blues. He shot his fall collection on a model who looks more like an actor, letting him wear his own jeans for an added dose of reality.

“It’s not about changing dramatically every season. It’s really about serving the final client,” he said. “Consistency in menswear is absolutely key.”

The designer honed his skills at brands including Valentino, Berluti and Cerruti before launching his namesake label in 2019, attracting switched-on retailers like Andreas Murkudis in Berlin.

With men’s fashion returning to tailored classics, this could be Camillo’s breakout season.