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Welcome to Out of Office, Who What Wear UK’s chic travel guide that provides you with the most stylish take on any destination by tapping creatives who know where to stay, what to eat and, more importantly, what to pack. This month, Who What Wear UK acting deputy editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans shares her tips for a memorable trip to Cape Town.
When contemplating my next big holiday with my husband, we had a checklist in mind. With 10 days to play with in November, we were seeking winter sun, and whilst we didn’t mind a long-haul flight, we didn’t want anything longer than 12 hours away, and ideally, the destination wouldn’t have a dramatic time difference to the UK. We wanted somewhere with beaches and a little culture, but not a straight-up city break where we’d have to be on our feet all day, every day to make the most of it. It wasn’t long before we landed on Cape Town, because neither of us had been there before, and it ticked every single box on our (quite picky) list.
With its spectacular coastlines, sprawling landscapes, surfing scene and bustling food and wine culture, we were delighted to find that Cape Town ended up being one of the most vibrant cities we’d ever visited. There are many great things about South Africa (which I’ll get into later), but our favourite thing was just how much there was to do. Cape Town provides an itinerary that is the perfect balance of busy and relaxed. There’s plenty to see, but you’re not left feeling overwhelmed, like you might on your first trip to New York, London or Paris. For me, it wins against these cosmopolitan cities thanks to its natural surroundings and laid-back vibe—it’s essentially a beach town, after all. In this way, I’d more readily compare it to Barcelona or L.A.
South Africa’s Western Cape has something for everyone, but is particularly great for lovers of the outdoors. From hiking the famous Table Mountain and Lion’s Head to driving the region’s magnificent coastlines and vineyards, as well as seeing the wildlife, it’s hard to get bored. Foodies and wine connoisseurs won’t find themselves disappointed, either, with so much locally grown and sourced produce to enjoy. South Africans are rightly proud of their cuisine.
If you’re already considering a trip to Cape Town, the best part is that it’s not overly expensive. Whilst hotels come in at a fair amount above average globally (in my experience), Airbnb and other home-rental platforms are very reasonable, and food, drinks and taxis are much cheaper than in the UK. Tempted? Luckily for you, I’m more of an over-sharer than a chronic gatekeeper, so read on to discover my insider tips on the best places to stay, eat, drink and visit in Cape Town.
Stylish Places in Cape Town
Where to Stay
Cape Grace, a Fairmont Managed Hotel:
If you want luxury in the heart of the city, Fairmont’s Cape Grace on the V&A Waterfront is a great option. Sitting on its own quay between the marina and the working harbour, this location provides a safe, clean and bustling atmosphere, with an array of excellent shops and restaurants on your doorstep. The hotel itself is an example of refined sophistication and service. After undergoing a huge renovation, the suites are grand and stunningly designed, with elegant, timeless interiors, a large, comfortable bed, a separate living room and bar, two balconies and views of either the harbour or the city’s mountains.
No thoughtful touch is spared, with even an in-room bath service for the ultimate relaxation and self-care experience. Throughout the hotel, you’ll find carefully curated local art, and there’s an outdoor pool and a restaurant with an exceptional menu, offering all the best food and drink that South Africa is known for: ceviche, steak and of course, wine. Make sure you also check out the hotel’s Bascule Bar, an almost-hidden speakeasy-style basement establishment with outdoor seating that looks over the harbour. It’s popular with locals as well as tourists—even those who aren’t guests. The service is representative of the hotel’s five-star rating: attentive and professional yet friendly, as you expect from any Fairmont hotel, and the general atmosphere exudes a chic, classy serenity that ensures a comfortable and calm stay.
The Twelve Apostles & Spa:
If you’re looking to stay out of the city centre, consider The Twelve Apostles. Situated just a 15-20 minute drive south, and situated above the rugged, rocky coastline with epic views of the sea (especially at sunset), at the right time of year, you can even spot dolphins and whales whilst eating breakfast. Traditional yet elegant in its decor, The Twelve Apostles has an old-world feel. The staff are familiar and warm, going above and beyond to ensure all your needs are met, and are happy to make bookings and recommendations throughout your trip.
There are two outdoor pool areas, which are equally inviting. The main pool is small but enveloped in plants, with elevated striped sun loungers and magnificent sea views; it’s a calm little oasis perfect for sun worshippers. The bedrooms are another delightcosy and light-filled, with opulent mirrored bathrooms and additional separate WC in the suites. What’s more, the hotel’s culinary offering is second to none. The breakfast buffet includes anything your heart desires, from oysters to champagne and pancakes, as well as an à la carte menu of traditional hot breakfast dishes. You certainly won’t go hungry. For dinner, I recommend having a sundowner with ocean views at the Leopard Bar, an elegantly decorated space (which, yes, has the most fabulous leopard-print carpet), and then head upstairs for dinner at Azure, which will not disappoint.
It gets better, because The Twelve Apostles spa is unlike any other I’ve experienced. Plunge pools and a tranquillity lounge are tucked away in the grotto-like underground area, and it’s clear that wellness is at the core of the hotel’s offering. As well as several treatment rooms, there’s also a Rasul mud chamber, a hydrotherapy pool and an extensive treatment list. If you can, book in for a massage at the Mountainside Spa Gazebo, a separate treatment room a few minutes away on the hillside from the main spa and hotel, which has panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and Table Mountain. Sublime.
Mount Nelson, a Belmond Hotel:
If you know anything about the hotel world, you’ll know what to expect from a Belmond property. The definition of luxury and style, Mount Nelson’s pretty-pink, palm-tree-surrounded palace is paradise. Think water fountains, pristine gardens filled with butterflies and a charming family of ducks that live in the hotel’s pool area (no, I’m not joking!). Much like most of Cape Town itself, Mount Nelson is the perfect blend of modern luxury and old-world allure. With traditionally decorated rooms and common areas like the entrance, parts of the hotel have retained its colonial charm, which allows you to almost feel as though you’ve stepped back in time.
In other spaces, however, there’s a more contemporary feel. The Planet Bar, pool area, spa and Lord Nelson lounge (a sort of games room with billiards, chess and a television) have more modern amenities whilst retaining a similar timeless, stylish decor in keeping with the impressive century-old building. The breakfast, served at the hotel’s Oasis Bistro, is one of—if not the—best breakfast buffets I’ve ever experienced. From baked goods to cold cuts and oysters, a Bloody Mary station and every type of fresh juice your heart could desire, it’s hard to imagine what’s missing. If staying in the city centre but feeling removed from the hustle and bustle is your desire, Belmond’s rose-tinted mansion will make you feel right at home.
What to Do
Whilst Cape Town’s city is wonderfully vibrant—from the V&A Waterfront to the eclectic Long Street and Bree Street—it’s the coastline and surrounding areas that make it such a magical place, in my opinion. The beaches are sublime; with clean, white sands, wide shores and brilliant—although freezing—blue waters, it’s no surprise that Cape Town is one of the best surfing spots in the world.
The famous Table Mountain and Lion’s Head offer spectacular views, especially at sunrise or sunset, and whether you drive south to Chapman’s Peak, visit Boulder’s Beach (the one with all the penguins that you’ve likely seen on Instagram), Noordhoek, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens or even Cape of Good Hope, the coastal drives are all second to none. It really is a place of significant natural beauty, so if you’re an outdoorsy sort of person, this is definitely a destination for you. The biggest takeaway from my Cape Town trip was that, despite it being a city destination, as an experience, it’s so much more.
You’ll want to visit Sea Point at some stage, walk along the broad promenade and eat (or drink) at many of the cute cafés, brunch spots and bars. If you choose not to stay in a hotel but rent an Airbnb, I would recommend staying here. Driving in Cape Town is highly recommended, simply because most of the stunning parts of the city and the surrounding areas are only reachable by car. It’s a very hilly city! This being said, Uber is so affordable and readily available (you can even do Uber safaris) that we often found ourselves taking one just for ease when staying relatively local.
Exploring the city’s main streets, like Kloof, Long and Bree, is a must for food, as well as a few great secondhand shops and boutiques which stock South African streetwear brands and African designers. On the V&A Waterfront, where Cape Grace is, you’ll find your usual international brands, as well as the Time Out Market and Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa—a must for those into modern art and architecture.
Outside the main city, hire a car and just explore. We spent a day driving down the famous Chapman’s Peak coastline, stopping at Noordhoek Beach and getting a coffee at the local organic shop (Organic Point Noordhoek), before heading to Boulder’s Beach to see the penguins, with a quick pitstop at Simon’s Town (the town local to Boulder’s Beach) for a peruse of the local stores.
Where to Safari
On top of a few beach days and sunset hikes, most who visit South Africa go for the wineries or safari. Whilst I didn’t have enough time to experience the wineries (next time, for sure), the Constantia Valley, around 20km south of the main city, is home to most of the leading names in the region. When it comes to safari, visiting wild reserves will require travelling inland or further north, almost as a separate extension of your Cape Town trip.
However, if, as I did, you have time or budget limitations, it is possible to see the “big five” (lions, elephants, leopards, rhinos and buffalo) at a few private game reserves a couple of hours’ drive from the city. We chose Aquila, a private reserve, hotel and spa that has a variety of packages, from half-day driving tours around the conservation to multi-day stays, which give you a chance to see animals through the day and night, as well as relax at the hotel’s pool and spa facilities.
Where to Eat and Drink
Cape Town is known for its foodie scene and wine regions, which means if you’re visiting, you’re in for a treat. The wine culture runs deep throughout the Western Cape, with all restaurants offering a breadth of top-notch South African wine for a very reasonable price. Of course, it isn’t all about the wine; South Africa is also known for its steak and seafood, with barbecued meats (known as “braai”), ceviche, oysters and lobster featuring regularly on upmarket and mid-tier restaurant menus. It’s also worth mentioning the country’s love of high tea, which Mount Nelson is famous for.
From seafood suppers to sundowner cocktails, this is my definitive list of recommendations worth saving.
Kloof Street Townhouse:
Eclectic and opulent interiors serve as the backdrop to this popular bar and restaurant situated in a Victorian townhouse on the city’s main street. Whether for Sunday brunch with friends or a date for two, there’s always a good vibe at Kloof Street Townhouse. Oh, and the food is fabulous.
Mount Nelson:
No culinary experience is quite as special as afternoon tea at Mount Nelson.
Coy:
A standout seafood restaurant, situated by the harbour at the V&A Waterfront.
Azure:
The Twelve Apostles’ main restaurant with truly spectacular views—perfect for a drink at sunset followed by an exquisite three-course dinner.
Maggy Lou’s:
My favourite spot in Sea View for brunch or cocktails.
Heirloom:
Seriously good wine and authentic traditional South African cuisine with a modern twist, Cape Grace’s Heirloom is one to visit if you’re in the V&A Waterfront area.
Blondie’s:
A fairly raucous bar that attracts young locals and students. If you’re looking for casual beers, tacos and a good time with the local surfers, this is your place.
What to Pack
Naturally, what to pack depends on both the season and your itinerary. Cape Town is quite a windy city, even in summer, so be sure to pack a light jacket, even when it’s warm. With so much natural beauty and outdoor activities on offer, be it safari, hiking or beach days, it’s definitely more of a stylish yet functional destination than a fashion city. Generally speaking, I’d say there’s no need for higher heels or anything too “dressy” unless that’s truly your vibe, in which case, anything goes. Don’t forget your sunscreen and swimwear, and be sure to pack trainers with good grip if you’re planning to hike in everyday sneakers instead of hiking boots—I did this for the beginner-intermediate hikes and managed fine. Overall, think elevated basics and light layers.
Packing Essentials
SALOMON
Xt-4 OG Ripstop Sneakers
Maksu
Odette Beige Jacket
Carl Friedrik
The Large Check-In
Taller Marmo
Lido Swimsuit Set
CELINE
Oval-Frame Metal Sunglasses
M&S
Satin Printed Neckerchief
Brunello Cucinelli
Cotton and linen shorts
Loewe
Mini Leather Crossbody Bag
