Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini has been developing the brand’s aesthetic with a clear point of view since his arrival at the end of 2023. But at the same time on Sunday he touted the importance of “personal interpretation,” and of dressing “in a natural way,” without strain.

Wearing layers — he said he is “a great fan” of this styling habit — he admitted some of his personal taste and preferences go into the brand, while “avoiding being self-referential” and the collection allowed easy mix-and-match and layering. Indeed, he has succeeded in evolving the key pillars of Tod’s, such as the leather craftsmanship and embracing the Italian lifestyle, which includes the use of the most precious fabrics.

In fact, the fall collection was shown together with the video “The Italian Touch,” set in the landmark  Villa Necchi Campiglio in Milan, once again the venue for the men’s presentation. In the video, friends ranging from Gelasio Gaetani d’Aragona Lovatelli to Edoardo Ardizzone Bollati di Saint Pierre share moments of conviviality, capturing that Italian lifestyle.

This season, Tamburini further developed the Pashmy project, the precious, soft and light hide, with the Coach and the Castello jackets, the latter a new blazer with patch pockets.

The designer shined a light on the Red Dot sneaker, marked by a red dot on the heel, flexible construction, elastic lacing, and a very light sole, and the Winter Gommino, a brand signature made famous by the late Fiat tycoon Gianni Agnelli, which Tamburini revisited, for example, with a cashmere or shearling lining in the suede version.

The suede and leather jackets were standouts, worn over cozy turtleneck sweaters; pants were fluid and casual, and tailored blazers flanked puffers that could easily be worn both on the slopes or in the city. “These are clothes that look simple but they hide special details and so much research in materials that you discover once you wear them,” Tamburini said.