Milan’s Palazzo Morando is presenting an historical investigation into male aesthetics, exploring the relationship between ornament and attire through the exhibition “The Gentleman — Men’s Style and Jewelry.”

On view until Sept. 27, it features a curated selection of jewelry and garments that showcase how these items have been, and continue to be, essential tools for defining roles, status and personality within society — from the 18th century to the present.

The exhibition features iconic pieces from renowned brands such as Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier and Damiani, alongside artisanal creative creations by jewelers ranging from Cusi di Corso Monforte and Grimoldi Milano to Margherita Burgener, among others.

Many of the jewelry pieces on display are loaned by institutions, including the historic Sartoria Tirelli Trappetti Costumi, the Atelier Bruno Piattelli and the RAI Milan archive, complemented by private archives of historical and contemporary jewelry.

The exhibition unfolds over time, from the 1700s, when European men of high social standing effortlessly wore elaborate jewelry and decorative accessories, to the following century, when the rise of the bourgeoisie drove men to embrace a more subdued image and jewelry becoming increasingly discreet and functional.

The 20th century led to a stronger simplification and standardization of men’s fashion, yet simultaneously witnessed the emergence of charismatic figures such as artists, intellectuals and icons of music and cinema, who reinstated ornamentation as a powerful means of individual expression.

The final section is dedicated to contemporary designers, stylists and artisans presenting bold, conceptual jewelry pieces. “Today, many jewels have transcended traditional notions of masculinity and femininity, embracing a gender-fluid ethos and expanding the horizons of style through innovative codes,” said curator Mara Cappelletti. “Modern ornaments are crafted to celebrate the authenticity of the wearer, unfettered by conventions, prejudices, or fleeting trends — they are designed for all, without boundaries of gender or age.” 

Sponsored by the Municipality of Milan and Palazzo Morando, in collaboration with the cultural association “Stile e storia,” the exhibition is supported by Camera Nazionale della Moda among others.