Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell have been in growth mode. “This is our largest collection yet,” said the latter, with the former adding, “we now know what works, what doesn’t, and what we like.”

That confidence was clear in some of the duo’s newness this season, which they presented by appointment at their new studio. A run of quilted styles decorated with rosettes—a ballgown, some modish dresses, and a few chore coats—cut in either powder blue and chocolate brown silk or black nylon were fun, covetable, and felt like breaking new ground for the designers. The tailoring here looked particularly good. The cut of a burgundy jacket felt contemporary but still honest to the Tanner Fletcher universe, and a handsome polka dot car coat was wearable and versatile—it’s the kind of piece you can imagine seeing out and about next season worn by the street style set once it hits stores. These were all a step in the right direction—Richie and Kasell’s work often walks a tightrope between vintage-inspired and slightly too affected by its own references, but this season offered a better, more forward-looking balance.

Richie and Kasell have found success in the weddings market (not exclusively bridal, given they dress tons of grooms), and they’re working to expand that range with some proper occasion wear, hence the wider range of dresses here. They’ve captured that young, adventurous shopper, and now they’re coming for the older, more established luxury consumer. This is an understandable ambition. Most convincing here was a deep red silky number with tucks at the bust—it was prim but playful—and a mini LBD in velvet. “It’s our sexiest one yet,” they affirmed. Sexy is not the first word that comes to mind with Tanner Fletcher, but here, and in those cami-like frocks, it worked. There’s opportunity for more of this friskiness in their world and they should explore it further to offset its cuteness.

The pair also brought back a few hits from seasons past, including a track jacket with their signature frilly trims decorating its pockets. “We’re manifesting a Nike collaboration!” Kasell said, laughing. It would indeed be interesting to see the pair further look into this sportier and undoubtedly more now side of their collection, with or without the involvement of a sportswear giant. It was exciting to hear them report that the label they launched during the pandemic is now a “real, sustainable business,” but it’ll be key for Richie and Kasell to identify opportunities to challenge it creatively as they continue to find ways to expand their collection. They have the basics figured out. As they said, they’ve figured out what works: now it’s time for a little unexpected. This collection was a strong effort, and it was most persuasive when it offered a couple of surprises.