
Beyond the concentration and pH of a glycolic acid product, consider its format as well as the other ingredients in the formula. If you have sensitive skin, you can gauge your skin’s tolerance of this alpha-hydroxy acid by using a glycolic cleanser. “Cleansers have very brief contact and are great for those with extremely reactive skin but provide only mild benefits,” says Dr. Reszko. Glycolic acid serums and toners tend to provide the best balance of potency and tolerability.
Peels and masks will deliver the fastest results, but tend to be especially potent, so be sure to do a patch test with your preferred product to see if your skin can handle it, then follow its directions closely.
As for supporting ingredients, Dr. Reszko recommends looking for humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin to help support skin’s hydration levels, lipids like shea butter or ceramides to bolster the skin barrier, and soothing agents to help calm any irritation. Panthenol, allantoin, niacinamide, green tea, and cica are all good choices here.
If you are worried about irritation, avoid glycolic acid formulas that include other powerful actives like retinoids, vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, or salicylic acid. That said, some of our favorite products combine alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic acid with salicylic acid or retinol—just be aware that these tend to be stronger and if you have sensitive skin, you’ll want to ease into using them.