Perusing Illisa’s shop isn’t for the shy. After you strip down to your less-than-skivvies, she’ll hunt through boxes, piles, and racks of pastel pinks to find the perfect fit. “I probably have about a thousand bullet bras from the ’40s and ’50s,” she says, all while transforming you into a Madonna-Gaultier dream. In my experience, vintage bullet bras are a lot like Goldilocks finding a place to sleep: You won’t know it’s a fit until you’re literally nipples deep.

If the idea of pre-owned underwear still isn’t your thing, you don’t have to wait until Miu Miu’s fall collection to go conical. According to the passionate posters of the A Bra That Fits sub, the Jeunique bra is the only modern bra that’s still cut like they used to be, with a catch: They are sold Avon-style, and the Find a Fitter part of the site isn’t working on my laptop or phone. Right, next.

Contessa Mills’s Seraphim collection includes a bullet-bra-and-knicker set made in shades of black and champagne silk. “My goal was to blend the timeless allure of full-coverage lingerie with modern comfort,” says Mills of the design, which was inspired by pinup models. “I wanted to craft pieces that not only evoked the spirit of a previous era but also celebrate the beauty of today’s wearer—comfortable, secure, yet seductive.” Slipping into the Seraphim set certainly was easier than my 80-year-old pieces of a similar style.

Araks’s Willow bralette—made of silk charmeuse and gossamer-like cotton—was a softer version of the triangular shape with one alluring detail not found in my vintage trousseau: a taste of the rainbow. Bras and bralettes come in bright, multicolored shades that remind me that modern underwear is as much about fun as function.

“The way you cut a bra pattern can completely change the shape of the breast and how it looks,” designer Araks Yeramyan tells me. “You can change the point of the breast based on how you cut the seams and place the darts. The type of fabric used also affects the shape—for example, woven silk doesn’t have as much stretch as a fabric with elastane, so you can get more severe shapes.”

It’s a lesson in sculpture—sort of. Other designs from the brand, like a kelly green balconette bra named Gita to the silk chiffon Beatrice, shape me into different variations of an acute angle. “I didn’t know you liked this pointy-boob look,” my partner says as I look at my reflection. “I just assumed you liked old stuff and old stuff made you have pointy boobs.” Not exactly, but at least the aesthetic was noticed.