Olivia de Rothschild on Oli’s Lab, Parfums Caron and Azzedine Alaïa


Olivia de Rothschild is the ultimate multitasker.

The Geneva native, born into a dynastic family, has a unique vantage point, whether it be on fragrance, beauty, fashion — or life. She recently launched Oli’s Lab, an online skin care retailer with an ethical bent, serves as artistic director of Parfums Caron and studies business remotely at Georgetown University.

De Rothschild admits she comes from a line of “hyperactives.” Her late father Benjamin de Rothschild and mother Ariane de Rothschild have banker, entrepreneur, philanthropist, sailor, winemaker and cheesemaker on their lengthy, impressive résumés.

“It is very standardized in my family to have the capacity to juggle multiple projects,” says Olivia de Rothschild, who also speaks multiple languages: English, French, Spanish and Italian.

Her elegant office, formerly her father’s, next door to her mother’s in the Edmond de Rothschild Asset Management headquarters in Paris, is housed in a stately hôtel particulier on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré offering breathtaking panoramic views of Paris’ zinc-clad rooftops, the Grand Palais and the Eiffel Tower.

“They were both extremely creative and dynamic people, very opinionated and decisive on how they wanted to change things,” de Rothschild says.

Art surrounds her, including sculptural bronze and wooden chairs by Ilana Goor. De Rothschild sits at a long table, created from a slab of roadway, by artist Jean-Nicolas Boulmier. On top of this table is her computer, spangled with stickers, including some of fragrance bottles.

She started young, working — and getting her fashion education — at nine years of age.

“I learn a lot by doing, and I like to be productive,” de Rothschild says.

Her mother, who wears Azzedine Alaïa, is a defining force. “It was the epitome of femininity,” de Rothschild says, of the fashion.

One day, as her mother got dressed, de Rothschild said to her: “I do not understand why this man does not do clothes for kids.”

Her mom was shocked, then said: “I am having dinner with him next week. Ask him.”

Olivia de Rothschild was so focused on her question that she even forgot to say hello to Alaïa. Arms crossed, she grilled him about children’s clothes. Surprised, he requested a measuring tape, pen and paper. She grabbed those lickety-split, and the designer took her measurements.

“I was absolutely not a shy kid,” de Rothschild says. “I’m the last of my three sisters, so I’m very chatty.”

A month later, Alaïa presented her a box containing a mini made-to-measure skirt. “My heart burst of joy,” she recalls. “He looked at me and said: ‘So how are you paying?’”

As it turns out, de Rothschild repaid him with work. “Every weekend I would come in his atelier and do anything he would ask,” she says. That included giving models pedicures, cooking, cleaning, toting fabrics and helping with fittings.

“I was so grateful, so overjoyed to be there,” de Rothschild recalls. “It’s where I learned my love for design, for art. Azzedine was an extraordinary man. He knew so much about all shapes and forms of aesthetic, and all its expressions and truth.”

She worked for Alaïa until his passing, when de Rothschild was 14 years old. She developed a strong sense of fashion, and loves shopping for it on Ssense. During the interview, de Rothschild sported a black deconstructed Hodakova jacket.

“I have such respect for the process of standing for smaller designers,” says de Rothschild, who has difficulty recognizing herself in the expression of luxury today. “Because it’s so disconnected — in my opinion ­— to reality.

“I don’t particularly recognize myself in the design either,” she adds. “It’s quite algorithmic.”

At 16, de Rothschild began working for Parfums Caron, a brand that she’d grown up with since both parents wore its products: her mom the powder and her father the Pour Un Homme scent. Ariane de Rothschild would also gift people Caron products on business trips.

Atmah from Parfums Caron

Atmah from Parfums Caron.

Courtesy photo

“For her, it was the symbol of French craft,” Olivia de Rothschild says. “I spent hours in that shop, too. Caron is a cabinet de curiosités.”

Cattleya Finance, Benjamin and Ariane de Rothschild’s private investment holding company, acquired the storied fragrance house — among France’s oldest — in 2018. A designer was hired to craft its new bottles, but Olivia de Rothschild had other ideas.

“I was extremely vocal on the fact that I sincerely felt that it was going in the wrong direction,” she says. The new design followed traditional luxury codes, “but was very distant,” de Rothschild continues, “and Caron has an underlying warmth that for me is so atypical for a luxury brand.”

After a time, her mother said: “If you’re not happy, just do it yourself.” De Rothschild did, then became increasingly present at Caron, taking on ever more responsibilities. Today, as artistic director she is starting to investigate how it can expand in design.

“I really like learning on the field,” de Rothschild says.

Thanks to her mother’s love of perfume, she has always viewed fragrance as a vehicle of expression. “It was a very natural flow,” de Rothschild says.

Her next project was her brainchild Oli’s Lab, an online purveyor of clean beauty, which de Rothschild began conceiving at age 18.

“It’s always been in my family that it’s abnormal to do only one project,” she says. “With that mindset, I was never really blocked or stopped to want to branch out.”

De Rothschild came up with the idea of Oli’s Lab after the 14-year-old daughter of her mother’s friend struggled with a skin condition.

From Oli's Lab

From Oli’s Lab.

Courtesy

“All the girls I know lived through it, and I felt a lot of empathy,” says de Rothschild, who started delving into product formulas. Once she found products that could suit the teen, de Rothschild had to go to buy them in about seven different stores.

“I thought: In what world is it so difficult and so hard to just take care of yourself?” she asks. “A lot of topics deserve to have intellectual outpour — like tea, for example. Beauty should have a minimum of comprehension in order to be able to do it well.”

De Rothschild’s mother asked her to formulate a business plan. Oli’s Lab website, launched in February after two years of development, is structured on three pillars: the analysis of cosmetics formulas with a grading system based on risk; product retailing and — what de Rothschild calls her “skin care for dummies” — Oli’s Lab Notes.

Beauty, she says, “is such a pillar. It unblocks a part of your brain that is dedicated to focusing on what’s wrong. It is so important to be able to be present in what is happening.

“That’s why I really like beauty,” de Rothschild explains. “For me, it’s liberation.”



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