How did we get here? You have to go back to where most unusual beauty trends start: TikTok. There you’ll find video after video crediting model and controversial content creator Nara Smith with popularizing a purported natural solution for treating dry skin, eczema, and acne: beef tallow. A form of rendered beef fat, which is usually found around the organs of a cow, beef tallow is more commonly used in cooking. But now it’s making its way into some people’s skin routines.

“[It] speaks to a growing desire for natural, minimalist skin care,” says Chris Tomassian, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of the Dermatology Collective, of the trend. “Many people seek alternatives to synthetic ingredients found in modern products.”

“There’s a growing interest in traditional whole-ingredient skin care inspired by what our ancestors used before commercial skin care existed,” agrees celebrity esthetician and brand founder Sofie Pavitt. “People are gravitating toward ‘skinimalism’ and using pure, unprocessed ingredients like tallow.”

But as with any viral skin-care trend, one must ask: Is it doing anything beneficial for our skin?

What is beef tallow supposed to do?

According to Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology, beef tallow is thought to help with dry skin and boost your natural radiance, thanks to its hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties. “Tallow is rich in omega fatty acids to help support the skin barrier. For this reason it can help moisturize and nourish the skin,” Dr. Garshick says. “Containing linoleic acid, tallow has anti-inflammatory properties to help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin. This is why it may be considered for those with eczema or psoriasis (though [this] hasn’t been tested in these patients).”

Beef tallow also contains vitamins A, D, K, and E, which Pavitt says can nourish and protect the skin. It is an ingredient in balms, creams, soaps, and even SPF. Some consumers, like Smith, use pure beef tallow as the base of moisturizers.

Does beef tallow actually work?

The answer to this is a resounding no, experts told Vogue. Dr. Garshick explains that while beef tallow is rich in omega-3 fatty acids and essential nutrients that can be helpful to our skin’s overall health, further research is needed to determine its efficacy and, more importantly, safety. She adds that beef tallow is not approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for use in skin care.